Roundworms are often found in puppies and too often assumed to be prevalent in puppies. The roundworm can lay dormant and undetected in the mother until a pregnancy brings them to life and they transfer to the womb and hence, the offspring. However, again, a healthy mother who is well fed, exercised and cared for will probably not have a problem and neither will the newborns. A drug happy world tells us that we can treat just in case. Remember, medications are drugs and drugs are generally poisons. Applying medication to a problem that "might" exist is unessessary and costly. A healthy mother will also provide the immune health along with a healthy diet to her offspring. If roundworms are found later on, they can be successfully treated by your vet. Chances are that they will not be a problem.
Whipworms, tapeworms and hookworms behave differently. Some attach themselves to the intestine and the dog will then expel an egg sac that looks like maggots or grains of rice. Others cause anemia by sucking the blood from the host. The problem is that medications are not always the solution because the problem is hard to eradicate. Therefore, the best line of defense is building a healthy body and immune system through diet, exercise, care and alternative treatments. Most veterinarians are well acquainted with holistic measures.
Diatomaceous (food grade)Earth is highly effective against parasites in horses, dogs, cats and other animals. It is even more effective when the diet of the animal in question includes greens, carotene (carrots are good source) and garlic. Pumpkins seeds are a great regular part of any diet, and egg shells that have been crushed, are easy to add in small quantities to a dogs diet. Garlic strips down a barrier in the gut that parasites use to hide exposing them to the diatomaceous earth that is actually very tiny like shells that cut and kill parasites. Dioatomaceous Earth is inexpensive and safe for all animals including humans. Farm and feed stores will have it readily available.
The proactive and holistic minded pet owner will always have an advantage over those who leave their pets to fate or who run to the animal hospital for everything. A wise pet owner will reconsider unessessary vaccinations and too frequent re-vaccinating.
Tell your vet you are always interested in methods other than medicine when he or she is determining a path towards your pet's health.
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Canine Parasites (Heartworm)
If you live in an area with a heavy mosquito population your vet has surely preached with passion the urgency and need for monthly heartworm preventive medications. This is understandable in light of the terrible death that awaits one who succombs to these horrible creatures that mature in the heart of the infected host after being transferred there by the bite of an already infected mosquito who in turn carries the parasite from another host it has fed upon.
It's not that easy though. Many of the problems we see in the area of drug-related deaths and the largest number of medication related problems are caused by heartworm medication.
Wolves, coyotes and other mammels in the wild are also at risk of this disease however, like dogs, most will develop a mild infestation and then an immunity to the parasite...end of story.
A dog who is fed well, loved much, excercised often and groomed, massaged and monitored is a very poor host for such parasites. Parasites are always drawn to the weak, sick, old and dying. Healthy vibant dogs are at only slight risks. Dogs who are victims of over medicating and over vaccinations are good hosts for parasites.
The place to start when it comes to the battle against any parasite is with a healthy lifestyle. Parasites are everywhere. They make their home on bees, mice, birds, rabbits, horses and people. They are in the yard, the air, water and even food and drink. Our immune systems are always working and developing the necessary defenses to make us stronger and healthier. The same is true for dogs, and an early and consistent start when it comes to health, exercise and nutrition is the best defense.
Only a well-read and experienced holistic veterinarian will understand your concern about heartworms and in many cases it may be the only alternative you have but, be informed and don't just go with the flow. Medications are drugs and drugs are poisons. Their overuse may have long term consequences that pale in comparison to short-term challenges.
It's not that easy though. Many of the problems we see in the area of drug-related deaths and the largest number of medication related problems are caused by heartworm medication.
Wolves, coyotes and other mammels in the wild are also at risk of this disease however, like dogs, most will develop a mild infestation and then an immunity to the parasite...end of story.
A dog who is fed well, loved much, excercised often and groomed, massaged and monitored is a very poor host for such parasites. Parasites are always drawn to the weak, sick, old and dying. Healthy vibant dogs are at only slight risks. Dogs who are victims of over medicating and over vaccinations are good hosts for parasites.
The place to start when it comes to the battle against any parasite is with a healthy lifestyle. Parasites are everywhere. They make their home on bees, mice, birds, rabbits, horses and people. They are in the yard, the air, water and even food and drink. Our immune systems are always working and developing the necessary defenses to make us stronger and healthier. The same is true for dogs, and an early and consistent start when it comes to health, exercise and nutrition is the best defense.
Only a well-read and experienced holistic veterinarian will understand your concern about heartworms and in many cases it may be the only alternative you have but, be informed and don't just go with the flow. Medications are drugs and drugs are poisons. Their overuse may have long term consequences that pale in comparison to short-term challenges.
Monday, May 23, 2011
Can Dogs See In Color
The retina of a dog has two layers. The outermost layer is a protective and nourishing layer to the inner nerve layer. This inner layer is what receives the light impulses. This inner layer is comprised of cones and rods. Rods are what is used to see black and white. The cones are what interpret color. Until the last few decades we used to think that dogs did not possess cones as humans do and so they could not see colors.
Today we know that dogs inner layer of the retina possess cones although about 90% fewer than humans. This is why dogs see better shades of black and white than do humans, because they have a geater percentage of rods. It is also why dogs can indeed see color but not with the clarity, distinction and diversity of the human eye. In addition dogs have a tapetum lucidum, which reflects light back through the retina giving a dog much greater capability to see at night. In fact, the tapetum lucidum is what makes a dogs eyes "glow" when you see them in low light.
The retina is sensitive and delicate. Hence, it sits in a protective socket and is only open in the front. Dogs with bulging eyes are more prone to damaging the retina. Owners hould be aware of their pets eyes and make sure they are protected. Riding in the back of trucks and sticking heads out the window are invitiations for problems.
Care for your dogs eyes and next time you wear pink with red...remember, your dog might be able to identify your fashion error! (Even though, I somewhat like pink and red together). :) :)
Today we know that dogs inner layer of the retina possess cones although about 90% fewer than humans. This is why dogs see better shades of black and white than do humans, because they have a geater percentage of rods. It is also why dogs can indeed see color but not with the clarity, distinction and diversity of the human eye. In addition dogs have a tapetum lucidum, which reflects light back through the retina giving a dog much greater capability to see at night. In fact, the tapetum lucidum is what makes a dogs eyes "glow" when you see them in low light.
The retina is sensitive and delicate. Hence, it sits in a protective socket and is only open in the front. Dogs with bulging eyes are more prone to damaging the retina. Owners hould be aware of their pets eyes and make sure they are protected. Riding in the back of trucks and sticking heads out the window are invitiations for problems.
Care for your dogs eyes and next time you wear pink with red...remember, your dog might be able to identify your fashion error! (Even though, I somewhat like pink and red together). :) :)
Sunday, May 22, 2011
More Allergy and Canine Itching Problems
I hear this very often. People are almost as bothered as their pet when it begins itching, licking and scratching. Your conventional vet will probably prescribe a steroid, antihistimine or other medication. Usually conventional veterinary training will lead a doctor to suggest a certain diet change...and he/she will have it available.
Here are some pointers and tips for dealing successfully with allergies. I have not met a dog in 8 years that I cannot help withou the use of toxic medicines or silly diets.
1) Stop the use of commercial dog food.
2) Get no more vaccinations until the dog has been allergy free for 12 months. (Unless by law you need a rabies shot)
3) Feed a homemade diet without meat or at least use a high quality organic meat or fish. I prefer organic, lentils, quinoa, rye flakes, nutritional yeast, ground flaxseed, fresh spinach, carrots, potatoes, broccoli and olive or vegetable oil. My dogs like to also sanck on almonds. (Few is better than many).
4) Give your dog plain yogurt before or after every meal. if the food is room temperatrure or chilled you might also just mix the yogurt in with the food.
5) Be sure you have a daily exercise program and that you dog spends lots of time everyday with the family or a family member.
6) Wean your dog off any medications that are for allergies.
7) Give your dog weekly or even bi-weekly massages. get more information at http://www.petmassageandacupressure.blogspot.com/
These are some excellent starting points for dealing with canine allergies and I am sure you'll notice a difference within 3-5 days in most cases. Allergies are not a disease. They simply point to a digestive, circulatory or immune dysfunction. Drugs that supress those symptom are creating future problems. I also suggest getting well read on options for controlling fleas, ticks and heartworm without use of medications.
Point to Ponder: Dogs are not necessarily healtheir today than they were 40 years ago. They may live longer, just as humans, but not with quality life. Support your healthy dogs natural functions early on and you'll have a dog that lives long and healthy without medical intrusion that is not necessary.
With all of that said, do NOT neglect visiting with your holistic veterinarian about your dogs needs.
Here are some pointers and tips for dealing successfully with allergies. I have not met a dog in 8 years that I cannot help withou the use of toxic medicines or silly diets.
1) Stop the use of commercial dog food.
2) Get no more vaccinations until the dog has been allergy free for 12 months. (Unless by law you need a rabies shot)
3) Feed a homemade diet without meat or at least use a high quality organic meat or fish. I prefer organic, lentils, quinoa, rye flakes, nutritional yeast, ground flaxseed, fresh spinach, carrots, potatoes, broccoli and olive or vegetable oil. My dogs like to also sanck on almonds. (Few is better than many).
4) Give your dog plain yogurt before or after every meal. if the food is room temperatrure or chilled you might also just mix the yogurt in with the food.
5) Be sure you have a daily exercise program and that you dog spends lots of time everyday with the family or a family member.
6) Wean your dog off any medications that are for allergies.
7) Give your dog weekly or even bi-weekly massages. get more information at http://www.petmassageandacupressure.blogspot.com/
These are some excellent starting points for dealing with canine allergies and I am sure you'll notice a difference within 3-5 days in most cases. Allergies are not a disease. They simply point to a digestive, circulatory or immune dysfunction. Drugs that supress those symptom are creating future problems. I also suggest getting well read on options for controlling fleas, ticks and heartworm without use of medications.
Point to Ponder: Dogs are not necessarily healtheir today than they were 40 years ago. They may live longer, just as humans, but not with quality life. Support your healthy dogs natural functions early on and you'll have a dog that lives long and healthy without medical intrusion that is not necessary.
With all of that said, do NOT neglect visiting with your holistic veterinarian about your dogs needs.
Saturday, May 21, 2011
Potty Training a Older Dog
The fact is this: A dog does not want to deficate or urinate where it lives. If it does this, then the problem is either medical (urinary tract infection, old age incontinence, renal failure) or it's because they were taught to go potty in the house.
Here is a great example: Snowball was an 11 month old Spitz (American Eskimo) dog. He had been going potty in the house for 7 months since the owners got him from the shelter. Snowball had a room of his own in the house (an actual bedroom) where he was confined at night. In the morning, the owners would take him immediately to a small kennl outside where he was supposed to go potty. Sometimes Snowball would spend a couple of hours outside in the "bathroom" but after he was brought inside the house-the general living area-he would go potty.
The owners were frustrated to no end. They had sheets and blankets all over the house so that when the dog went potty, it would at least be on something that could be washed.
Here is the logic of the problem: A dog does not want to go potty in its den. In this case, Snowball had two dens.; the bedroom where he slept and the kennel outside. The only place left to potty was in the house. Snowball never went potty in his bedroom!
When the owners learned of this they were advised (by us) to take Snowball out for a walk in the morning (rain or shine or tornado) and then again two more times during the day and before bed.
It tooks less than 10 days to resolve the problem. The problem was Snowball's owners, not Snowball. This is a good example for many people experiencing a potty training issue. For some it is not the answer, but for everyone it is a good example of how people can look right past the issue instead of trying to hear the whispers of their canine companion!
Here is a great example: Snowball was an 11 month old Spitz (American Eskimo) dog. He had been going potty in the house for 7 months since the owners got him from the shelter. Snowball had a room of his own in the house (an actual bedroom) where he was confined at night. In the morning, the owners would take him immediately to a small kennl outside where he was supposed to go potty. Sometimes Snowball would spend a couple of hours outside in the "bathroom" but after he was brought inside the house-the general living area-he would go potty.
The owners were frustrated to no end. They had sheets and blankets all over the house so that when the dog went potty, it would at least be on something that could be washed.
Here is the logic of the problem: A dog does not want to go potty in its den. In this case, Snowball had two dens.; the bedroom where he slept and the kennel outside. The only place left to potty was in the house. Snowball never went potty in his bedroom!
When the owners learned of this they were advised (by us) to take Snowball out for a walk in the morning (rain or shine or tornado) and then again two more times during the day and before bed.
It tooks less than 10 days to resolve the problem. The problem was Snowball's owners, not Snowball. This is a good example for many people experiencing a potty training issue. For some it is not the answer, but for everyone it is a good example of how people can look right past the issue instead of trying to hear the whispers of their canine companion!
Friday, May 20, 2011
How to Stop a Dog from Jumping on People.
Dogs typically love hands, with the exception of those who are abused. Dogs love our hands because hands play with, feed them, scratch their bellies and are used in most communication efforts.
Clients that have asked me fore help with jumping dogs or overly excited dogs are usually making the mistake of telling the dog to "jump" or "come get me" by what they do with their hands. That's right, reaching down to stop the dog from jumping is actually communicating just the opposite.
If a person lifts their hands to their chest to get away from the dog, the dog believes that means "jump up to get to my hands that you love so much". If a dog jumps up and a person tries to push the dog down or push the dog away with his hands, the dog interprets that as "try harder to get those wonderful hands that are playing with me. "If I keep doing this then they'll give me their wonderful hands! Hands, hands, hands!"
Dogs who are well-cared for and excercised daily will respond quickly to hands that stay limp at your side while you ignore the dog until such time as it settles down and you decided you are ready to play or pet.
Begin teaching your dog by waiting for to have a session after a period of exercise. I always tell clients to have recess before class. That way the dog is less likely to be overly excitable and will probably pay better attention.
Walk towards your dog and when the dog is sitting or standing calmly, praise him and reach down to pet him. When the dog jumps up, stop. When the dog is settled then do it again always praising the right behavior and ignoring the unwanted responses.
Remember; dogs love your hands, so use them to condition and train the dog with consistency and common sense.
Clients that have asked me fore help with jumping dogs or overly excited dogs are usually making the mistake of telling the dog to "jump" or "come get me" by what they do with their hands. That's right, reaching down to stop the dog from jumping is actually communicating just the opposite.
If a person lifts their hands to their chest to get away from the dog, the dog believes that means "jump up to get to my hands that you love so much". If a dog jumps up and a person tries to push the dog down or push the dog away with his hands, the dog interprets that as "try harder to get those wonderful hands that are playing with me. "If I keep doing this then they'll give me their wonderful hands! Hands, hands, hands!"
Dogs who are well-cared for and excercised daily will respond quickly to hands that stay limp at your side while you ignore the dog until such time as it settles down and you decided you are ready to play or pet.
Begin teaching your dog by waiting for to have a session after a period of exercise. I always tell clients to have recess before class. That way the dog is less likely to be overly excitable and will probably pay better attention.
Walk towards your dog and when the dog is sitting or standing calmly, praise him and reach down to pet him. When the dog jumps up, stop. When the dog is settled then do it again always praising the right behavior and ignoring the unwanted responses.
Remember; dogs love your hands, so use them to condition and train the dog with consistency and common sense.
Thursday, May 19, 2011
How to Stop a Dog from Barking
Dogs exhibit poor behavior usually because of poor breeding or more commonly, because they are not well integrated into a family and not regularly exercised and stimulated. Before trying to conquer the barking issue, please consider how you might change or adopt a vigorous exercise and basic obedience program.
It is usually helpful to ask yourself what you want the dog to START doing rather than ask yourself what you want the dog to STOP doing. So for example, you might say I want the dog to stop barking when people come to the door. Instead ask what DO you want the dog to do when someone comes to the door. The answer may be something like; I want the dog to go to its place by the window and sit down. Can you see how this perspective might open new opportunities for you in re-conditioning your best friend?
Now we need to perfect the "sit" command. Your dog should practice sitting at home alone, then with others around. Then outside, on walks, in the park, when people approach, when people walk by the house, when other dogs walk by at a distance and then when they (the other dogs) are closer etc, at an outdoor concert, Home Depot and more, until your dog always sits on command. This is where many people have a problem they don't even know they have. They think their dog can sit, but it only happens at home in the living room when nothing else is going on.
Next, say "go to your spot" and lead the dog to its spot (let's pretend the dog has a day bed by the front window.) When the dog is on the bed reward it tell it to stay and do it again. Now we want to say "go to your spot" and "sit" before we open the door. Do this over and over again and make sure the dog is set up for success by doing it with people the dog knows such as family members that walk out the door and come back in right away. At first, let the dog know what's going on by having a spouse or child walk out the door, then tell the dog to go to its spot and sit. Make sure the dog will "stay" and then have the person walk in the door without ringing or knocking. If the dog stays, casually walk to the dog and reward it. After numerous successes, start knocking and ringing. Don't get too far ahead of yourself and do not reward or punish bad behavior. Wait and work on successes. Keep practice sessions short (5-7 minutes).
It is usually helpful to ask yourself what you want the dog to START doing rather than ask yourself what you want the dog to STOP doing. So for example, you might say I want the dog to stop barking when people come to the door. Instead ask what DO you want the dog to do when someone comes to the door. The answer may be something like; I want the dog to go to its place by the window and sit down. Can you see how this perspective might open new opportunities for you in re-conditioning your best friend?
Now we need to perfect the "sit" command. Your dog should practice sitting at home alone, then with others around. Then outside, on walks, in the park, when people approach, when people walk by the house, when other dogs walk by at a distance and then when they (the other dogs) are closer etc, at an outdoor concert, Home Depot and more, until your dog always sits on command. This is where many people have a problem they don't even know they have. They think their dog can sit, but it only happens at home in the living room when nothing else is going on.
Next, say "go to your spot" and lead the dog to its spot (let's pretend the dog has a day bed by the front window.) When the dog is on the bed reward it tell it to stay and do it again. Now we want to say "go to your spot" and "sit" before we open the door. Do this over and over again and make sure the dog is set up for success by doing it with people the dog knows such as family members that walk out the door and come back in right away. At first, let the dog know what's going on by having a spouse or child walk out the door, then tell the dog to go to its spot and sit. Make sure the dog will "stay" and then have the person walk in the door without ringing or knocking. If the dog stays, casually walk to the dog and reward it. After numerous successes, start knocking and ringing. Don't get too far ahead of yourself and do not reward or punish bad behavior. Wait and work on successes. Keep practice sessions short (5-7 minutes).
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