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Friday, December 16, 2011

Woof. Woof. Be Happy, Content and Young!

My dog, Barney, worked professionally with a few dozen aggressive and/or poorly socialized canines as my "assistant" in my dog business in Nashville. His unmatched calm and confident energy did wonders at communicating things like "chill", "mellow out" and "relax dude", to animals that were predictably aggressive.

Aggressive dogs are sometimes described by their owners as "protective", however, that is a poor choice of words. Protective dogs that are truly protective, know how to identify a real threat. Most dogs that are "protective" are simply fearful (fear aggressive), worried about their own dominance (dominant aggressive), or unsure about their control over something that they see as "theirs" (territory aggressive).

Dogs that are happy and confident will typically stand sideways to an aggressive dog when confronted, look out of the corner of their eyes and adopt a particular tail/mouth/ear posture. This communicates that they are friendly and not interested in harming the other dog or trying to be the boss.

Yesterday a pair of German Shepherds entered the soccer field with their owner, one of which was on a leash and whose mouth was partially restrained from opening wide enough to bite. I encouraged the owner to do a  few things and soon the two dogs (his and mine) were both free, smelling and snooping. Barney simply told the other dog "Hey, I'm sure you're cool, but to be quite honest I don't need any power or possessions. You can have whatever you want, I am happy just hanging out and enjoying life. Don't take it personally, I am totally open to a new friendship but right now, you are basically irrelevant to me."

To be driven by want and desire is self-destructive. Self-esteem is really a mixture of confidence and humility. This is what we should work towards and, be aware of daily, in a world of struggle, stress and the need for things and status.

The man at the field said "that is remarkable. He has such a great disposition. What a cool dog."

Barney's greatest desire in the course of a day is to spend quality time outside in natural places, run, lay in the sun, snoop around (question things), and enjoy whole and healthy foods.

Who would have guessed my dog could have been such an excellent teacher. I only hope I can be an equally good student.

Here's to young, healthy and happy! "Woof, Woof!"

Monday, October 17, 2011

Playing Tug With Your Dog

Playing tug is not necessarily taboo as many professionals might advise you. However it is really a game that should be avoided unless it is actually needed. So, when is playing tug with your dog a good idea?

If the dog is shy and not aggressive, tug may be one of many things that you can do to build confidence and self-esteem. Allowing your shy dog chances to win the game may be a helpful element in a behavior therapy program. More important is teaching your dog numerous commands and even tricks. Exercise and socialization are absolutely crucial aspects of an effective program.

Tug is also a fun occasional game for you and your calm, well-behaved canine companion. It offers a chance to do something different and diversifies the experiences roster of you and your friend. This is bond-building. Of course, there are many other things in addition to tug that may be great play games including, fetch, hide and seek, easy wrestling etc.

You are probably your dog's best friend just as he or she is yours, and doing many things together will build a huge bond that results in obedience, cooperation, communication and trust.

On the other hand, playing tug of war with your dog that is already "protective" or fear aggressive, will likely result in more unwanted behavior. If you are not sure, tug may be a game to put off until many other games, commands and training have been accomplished.



Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Tapeworms, Whipworms, Roundworms and Hookworms

Roundworms are often found in puppies and too often assumed to be prevalent in puppies. The roundworm can lay dormant and undetected in the mother until a pregnancy brings them to life and they transfer to the womb and hence, the offspring. However, again, a healthy mother who is well fed, exercised and cared for will probably not have a problem and neither will the newborns. A drug happy world tells us that we can treat just in case. Remember, medications are drugs and drugs are generally poisons. Applying medication to a problem that "might" exist is unessessary and costly. A healthy mother will also provide the immune health along with a healthy diet to her offspring. If roundworms are found later on, they can be successfully treated by your vet. Chances are that they will not be a problem.

Whipworms, tapeworms and hookworms behave differently. Some attach themselves to the intestine and the dog will then expel an egg sac that looks like maggots or grains of rice. Others cause anemia by sucking the blood from the host. The problem is that medications are not always the solution because the problem is hard to eradicate. Therefore, the best line of defense is building a healthy body and immune system through diet, exercise, care and alternative treatments. Most veterinarians are well acquainted with holistic measures.

Diatomaceous (food grade)Earth is highly effective against parasites in horses, dogs, cats and other animals. It is even more effective when the diet of the animal in question includes greens, carotene (carrots are good source) and garlic. Pumpkins seeds are a great regular part of any diet, and egg shells that have been crushed, are easy to add in small quantities to a dogs diet. Garlic strips down a barrier in the gut that parasites use to hide exposing them to the diatomaceous earth that is actually very tiny like shells that cut and kill parasites. Dioatomaceous Earth is inexpensive and safe for all animals including humans. Farm and feed stores will have it readily available.

The proactive and holistic minded pet owner will always have an advantage over those who leave their pets to fate or who run to the animal hospital for everything. A wise pet owner will reconsider unessessary vaccinations and too frequent re-vaccinating.

Tell your vet you are always interested in methods other than medicine when he or she is determining a path towards your pet's health.

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Canine Parasites (Heartworm)

If you live in an area with a heavy mosquito population your vet has surely preached with passion the urgency and need for monthly heartworm preventive medications. This is understandable in light of the terrible death that awaits one who succombs to these horrible creatures that mature in the heart of the infected host after being transferred there by the bite of an already infected mosquito who in turn carries the parasite from another host it has fed upon.

It's not that easy though. Many of the problems we see in the area of drug-related deaths and the largest number of medication related problems are caused by heartworm medication.

Wolves, coyotes and other mammels in the wild are also at risk of this disease however, like dogs, most will develop a mild infestation and then an immunity to the parasite...end of story.

A dog who is fed well, loved much, excercised often and groomed, massaged and monitored is a very poor host for such parasites. Parasites are always drawn to the weak, sick, old and dying. Healthy vibant dogs are at only slight risks. Dogs who are victims of over medicating and over vaccinations are good hosts for parasites.

The place to start when it comes to the battle against any parasite is with a healthy lifestyle. Parasites are everywhere. They make their home on bees, mice, birds, rabbits, horses and people. They are in the yard, the air, water and even food and drink. Our immune systems are always working and developing the necessary defenses to make us stronger and healthier. The same is true for dogs, and an early and consistent start when it comes to health, exercise and nutrition is the best defense.

Only a well-read and experienced holistic veterinarian will understand your concern about heartworms and in many cases it may be the only alternative you have but, be informed and don't just go with the flow. Medications are drugs and drugs are poisons. Their overuse may have long term consequences that pale in comparison to short-term challenges.

Monday, May 23, 2011

Can Dogs See In Color

The retina of a dog has two layers. The outermost layer is a protective and nourishing layer to the inner nerve layer. This inner layer is what receives the light impulses. This inner layer is comprised of cones and rods. Rods are what is used to see black and white. The cones are what interpret color. Until the last few decades we used to think that dogs did not possess cones as humans do and so they could not see colors.

Today we know that dogs inner layer of the retina possess cones although about 90% fewer than humans. This is why dogs see better shades of black and white than do humans, because they have a geater percentage of rods. It is also why dogs can indeed see color but not with the clarity, distinction and diversity of the human eye. In addition dogs have a tapetum lucidum, which reflects light back through the retina giving a dog much greater capability to see at night. In fact, the tapetum lucidum is what makes a dogs eyes "glow" when you see them in low light.

The retina is sensitive and delicate. Hence, it sits in a protective socket and is only open in the front. Dogs with bulging eyes are more prone to damaging the retina. Owners hould be aware of their pets eyes and make sure they are protected. Riding in the back of trucks and sticking heads out the window are invitiations for problems.

Care for your dogs eyes and next time you wear pink with red...remember, your dog might be able to identify your fashion error! (Even though, I somewhat like pink and red together). :) :)

Sunday, May 22, 2011

More Allergy and Canine Itching Problems

I hear this very often. People are almost as bothered as their pet when it begins itching, licking and scratching. Your conventional vet will probably prescribe a steroid, antihistimine or other medication. Usually conventional veterinary training will lead a doctor to suggest a certain diet change...and he/she will have it available.

Here are some pointers and tips for dealing successfully with allergies. I have not met a dog in 8 years that I cannot help withou the use of toxic medicines or silly diets.

1) Stop the use of commercial dog food.

2) Get no more vaccinations until the dog has been allergy free for 12 months. (Unless by law you need a rabies shot)

3) Feed a homemade diet without meat or at least use a high quality organic meat or fish. I prefer organic, lentils, quinoa, rye flakes, nutritional yeast, ground flaxseed, fresh spinach, carrots, potatoes, broccoli and olive or vegetable oil. My dogs like to also sanck on almonds. (Few is better than many).

4) Give your dog plain yogurt before or after every meal. if the food is room temperatrure or chilled you might also just mix the yogurt in with the food.

5) Be sure you have a daily exercise program and that you dog spends lots of time everyday with the family or a family member.

6) Wean your dog off any medications that are for allergies.

7) Give your dog weekly or even bi-weekly massages.  get more information at http://www.petmassageandacupressure.blogspot.com/

These are some excellent starting points for dealing with canine allergies and I am sure you'll notice a difference within 3-5 days in most cases. Allergies are not a disease. They simply point to a digestive, circulatory or immune dysfunction. Drugs that supress those symptom are creating future problems. I also suggest getting well read on options for controlling fleas, ticks and heartworm without use of medications.

Point to Ponder: Dogs are not necessarily healtheir today than they were 40 years ago. They may live longer, just as humans, but not with quality life. Support your healthy dogs natural functions early on and you'll have a dog that lives long and healthy without medical intrusion that is not necessary.

With all of that said, do NOT neglect visiting with your holistic veterinarian about your dogs needs.

Saturday, May 21, 2011

Potty Training a Older Dog

The fact is this: A dog does not want to deficate or urinate where it lives. If it does this, then the problem is either medical (urinary tract infection, old age incontinence, renal failure) or it's because they were taught to go potty in the house.

Here is a great example: Snowball was an 11 month old Spitz (American Eskimo) dog. He had been going potty in the house for 7 months since the owners got him from the shelter. Snowball had a room of his own in the house (an actual bedroom) where he was confined at night. In the morning, the owners would take him immediately to a small kennl outside where he was supposed to go potty. Sometimes Snowball would spend a couple of hours outside in the "bathroom" but after he was brought inside the house-the general living area-he would go potty.

The owners were frustrated to no end. They had sheets and blankets all over the house so that when the dog went potty, it would at least be on something that could be washed.

Here is the logic of the problem: A dog does not want to go potty in its den. In this case, Snowball had two dens.; the bedroom where he slept and the kennel outside. The only place left to potty was in the house. Snowball never went potty in his bedroom!

When the owners learned of this they were advised (by us) to take Snowball out for a walk in the morning (rain or shine or tornado) and then again two more times during the day and before bed.

It tooks less than 10 days to resolve the problem. The problem was Snowball's owners, not Snowball. This is a good example for many people experiencing a potty training issue. For some it is not the answer, but for everyone it is a good example of how people can look right past the issue instead of trying to hear the whispers of their canine companion!

Friday, May 20, 2011

How to Stop a Dog from Jumping on People.

Dogs typically love hands, with the exception of those who are abused. Dogs love our hands because hands play with, feed them, scratch their bellies and are used in most communication efforts.

Clients that have asked me fore help with jumping dogs or overly excited dogs are usually making the mistake of telling the dog to "jump" or "come get me" by what they do with their hands. That's right, reaching down to stop the dog from jumping is actually communicating just the opposite.

If a person lifts their hands to their chest to get away from the dog, the dog believes that means "jump up to get to my hands that you love so much". If a dog jumps up and a person tries to push the dog down or push the dog away with his hands, the dog interprets that as "try harder to get those wonderful hands that are playing with me. "If I keep doing this then they'll give me their wonderful hands! Hands, hands, hands!"

Dogs who are well-cared for and excercised daily will respond quickly to hands that stay limp at your side while you ignore the dog until such time as it settles down and you decided you are ready to play or pet.

Begin teaching your dog by waiting for to have a session after a period of exercise. I always tell clients to have recess before class. That way the dog is less likely to be overly excitable and will probably pay better attention.

Walk towards your dog and when the dog is sitting or standing calmly, praise him and reach down to pet him. When the dog jumps up, stop. When the dog is settled then do it again always praising the right behavior and ignoring the unwanted responses.

Remember; dogs love your hands, so use them to condition and train the dog with consistency and common sense.

Thursday, May 19, 2011

How to Stop a Dog from Barking

Dogs exhibit poor behavior usually because of poor breeding or more commonly, because they are not well integrated into a family and not regularly exercised and stimulated. Before trying to conquer the barking issue, please consider how you might change or adopt a vigorous exercise and basic obedience program.

It is usually helpful to ask yourself what you want the dog to START doing rather than ask yourself what you want the dog to STOP doing. So for example, you might say I want the dog to stop barking when people come to the door. Instead ask what DO you want the dog to do when someone comes to the door. The answer may be something like; I want the dog to go to its place by the window and sit down. Can you see how this perspective might open new opportunities for you in re-conditioning your best friend?

Now we need to perfect the "sit" command. Your dog should practice sitting at home alone, then with others around. Then outside, on walks, in the park, when people approach, when people walk by the house, when other dogs walk by at a distance and then when they (the other dogs) are closer etc, at an outdoor concert, Home Depot and more, until your dog always sits on command. This is where many people have a problem they don't even know they have. They think their dog can sit, but it only happens at home in the living room when nothing else is going on.

Next, say "go to your spot" and lead the dog to its spot (let's pretend the dog has a day bed by the front window.) When the dog is on the bed reward it tell it to stay and do it again. Now we want to say "go to your spot" and "sit" before we open the door. Do this over and over again and make sure the dog is set up for success by doing it with people the dog knows such as family members that walk out the door and come back in right away. At first, let the dog know what's going on by having a spouse or child walk out the door, then tell the dog to go to its spot and sit. Make sure the dog will "stay" and then have the person walk in the door without ringing or knocking. If the dog stays, casually walk to the dog and reward it. After numerous successes, start knocking and ringing. Don't get too far ahead of yourself and do not reward or punish bad behavior. Wait and work on successes. Keep practice sessions short (5-7 minutes).

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Free Shaping (Teaching Your Dog Tricks)

We've all seen dogs that shake hands, play dead, hold a treat on their nose etc. Teaching a dog tricks should come only after a dog has learned basic obedience commands and is well-adjusted and integrated into its home and community. A dog that can play dead might be cute to watch but if that same dog cannot go for a walk without pulling on the leash it can become not-so-cute real quick. With this understood, I want to emphasize how helpful trick training can be for several reasons. Before I offer "Free-Shaping" as a great tool for learning tricks let me first mention how teaching a dog tricks will improve the dog/owner relationship.

Obedience: An owner that spends a few minutes every so often teaching their dog a new trick will have a dog that listens better and admires its owner and friend...you. Just like a teacher that spends time with you in school won your attention and admiration, so will be the result of you spending teaching time with your dog in trick school. Your dog will be more likely to pay attention to your voice on a walk or when someone comes to the door knocking. Your dogs level of trust and admiration will grow as you spend quality time teaching.

Self Esteem: Dogs grow in self esteem and confidence when they are set up time and time again for success in learning tricks and basic commands. Dogs with high self-esteem are not as hyper or timid, are healthier and are more likely to have a home for life.

Social Grace: Everyone loves a dog that behaves well around people and other dogs. Dogs who know tricks are like well socialized teenagers in a group of mature adults.

How To Use the Art of Free Shaping

Free Shaping is the use of a clicker to mark a normally ocurring behavior in a canine companion. The easiest way to descibe this is with an example. One of my dogs has learned to howl (sing) along with me when I play Happy Birthday on the harmonica. When we finish the song I ask him to take a bow and he does! Both the howling and bowing were normal behaviors I noticed in him. You've surely noticed dogs that stretch by putting their butt up in the air and reaching far out in front of themselves with their front legs while their head goes down to the ground as if "taking a bow". Since I knew there were certain times my dog would do this I decided to mark that behavior with a clicker when saying "take a bow". (Using a clicker is another important technique that is covered in another post. see here). It only took a couple of minutes to have my dog "bowing" after we went into a quiet room together for a Free Shaping session. He instinctively howled with the sound of the harmonica.

Take your dog into a quiet place and observe his/her behavior and select certain behaviors that can be made into tricks and you'll have a blast performing with your canine companion! Be sure to learn proper clicker techniques.

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

How to Stop a Dog From Digging

Common problem. Easy solution. Exercise, restriction and distraction. Ok, maybe not so easy for every case of the "digs".

Some breeds dig for shelter or to cool off. A Husky is an expert digger. Labs are notoriously diggers. Most dogs dig out of boredom and excess energy. It is often dogs that are under-exercised that cause the biggest challenge when it comes to tearing up new holes in the yard week after week. Here are a few tips that work well when all integrated into a behavior modification program.

It is ideal to set a dog up for success and for many dogs that means not leaving them alone in the backyard and expecting them to just lay on the deck all day and ignore that natural tendancy to dog. If your dog digs, you should consider leaving him indoors in a safe, comfortable place. Whether leaving the dog inside or not, it is important to get exercise before the long (all day for many dogs and owners) and boring separation. A jog, swim, trip to the park, brish walk or game of fetch should become a daily ritual. It's part of owning a dog that has enough energy to dog up the yard. Follow this up by leaving the dog inside for a few days or weeks. When leaving for short periods of time (15 minutes -1 hour) try leaving the dog in the yard and praising good behavior upon return.

Be sure to provide distrations for the dog such as favorite toys, a deck where they can see people or other things going on, or cement or wood areas where they can be away from the tempting dirt and grass.

Catching a dog digging can be a good time for a stern "no". Follow up this correction by immediately removing the dog from the area. If you have a place (field) where the dog is allowed to dig, then use this opportunity to encourage digging, but never at home!

Finally, be sure your dog is well integrated into the family. Dogs that are part of a close knit family have few behavior problems and when they do, are ideal students for a modification program. Try to find time for the dog to be with the family in and out of doors.

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Tumors and Fatty Growths (Lipomas) on Dogs

It is very common for dogs to develop these (usually benign) fatty tumors on their body. The tumors may appear anywhere and often grow in size slowly. The number of tumors and the size is not related to the question of whether it is cancerous or not. Most dogs will get a lipoma and it will grow. As long as it does not interfere with movement they are not worrisome.

However, a lipoma is a sign that your dog has a digestive, metabolic or diet challenge. Commercial foods are likely the culprit for this problem. When the body cannot use or expel certain indigestible fats it stores them in these unglamorous tumors. The solution for stopping the growth and the appearance of new lipomas is to switch to a homemade diet that uses only high quality fats and stresses whole grains and finely minced green veggies (parsley, cilantro, basil, spinach, broccoli, kale etc).

If you cannot identify the food your dog is eating (such as potato, rice, meat, yogurt etc) then the diet you're using is over processed and probably high in bad fats.

Yogurt is an excellent digestive aid and I give it to my dogs daily. Sometimes I will substitute a probiotic supplement.

For tumors that already exist, there is a slight chance that they may reduce or disappear. Don't bother having them removed unless they interfere with movement. You may try a yellow light on the dog for 15-30 minutes at a time for several days or even weeks. Some holistic vets have experienced success with this kind of light therapy.

Exercise, good diet and digestive aids are your priorities when it comes to lipomas.

Saturday, May 14, 2011

Thyroid Imbalance in Canines.

A dog who suffers from an over or under active thyroid may exhibit signs including, lack of energy, weight loss or gain despite normal eating habits, black dots or rash around the groin area, an unhealthy looking coat or a dirty/greasy feel to the coat, irritable or lathargic as well as other possible symptoms.

A homeade diet is always the best health maintainence program along with exercise but here are some other helpful hints:

1) Kelp and/or small quantities of sea salt help to insure a proper level of iodine on the body. Iodine is an important part of health thyroid function.

2) Aswahganda and astragalus are whole body tonics that are especially helpful in boosting thyroid health. Tyrosine is the amino acid that plays an important role in thyroid function and can sometimes be given as a supplement.

3) Sunlight is necessary for all around health and especially for the proper functioning of the entire glandular system. The benefits of playing, walking or running in the sun are huge and vast. While every dog needs access to shade and water, time spent in the sun will balance energize your pet. Proper hormone balance is often related to proper illumination. In light therapy or spectropathy, different colors of the spectrum are used to depress or stimulate certain body systems and the components of those systems, sunlight is the combination of all the colors of the spectrum and is necessary for life and health in all animals and humans. A blue, indigo or purple light shown on your dog at night may calm your dog and allow for healing while sleeping. An orange or red light shown on your dog during the day for perioids of time (15-60 minutes) may help to stimulate proper hormone functions and thyroid balance.

Friday, May 13, 2011

Dental Care for Your Dog and Bruching A Dog's Teeth.

I have put my fingers in the hands of numerous dogs whose owners insisted the dog would not allow such an intrusion. Fingers in the mouth are a sure way to maintain dental hygiene in a canine. As a pet massage therapist I have found that getting a dog used to having its teeth brushed can be facilitated by starting with the masseter muscle. This is the roundish muscle right behind the jaw on each side of the face or head. This hard working muscle can be gently massaged with the fingers in a circular motion. When you are comfortable sliding a finger or two inside your dogs mouth, try putting your thumbs back on the inside of that masseter muscle and massage the outside with your fingers. The dog will start to "chew" and this means it feels good. Now, while doing this rub the gums for a few moments at a time. Before long you should be able to massage the teeth and gums preparing you to be able to brush with a finger and some gauze or a brush.

Greens are a great part of dental health. Use parsley, cilatro, spinach and kale in your dogs diet. This is easy for me as I cook for my dogs, but stirring some plain (unsweetened) yogurt in with your dogs food and some finely chopped greens will help bad breath, aid digestion and help to accomplish a plan for preventive care.

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

What to Look For When Buying a Puppy.

There are a few cardinal rules when it comes to buying a puppy, all of which can sometimes be broken.

1) Do not buy from a pet store: Puppies in stores are bought and sold as commodities, and breeders (using the term loosely) have little, or no knowledge, or concern about maintaining, strengthening or representing breed standards and qualities. The love of "trying to make some quick cash" is far above the love of dogs. The exception is the fact that even store puppies need a home. You will do yourself a huge favor by asking locals vets or breeders to help you find a puppy that is right for you and your family. Certain breeds and mixes may be your worst nightmare and others may be a perfect match. DO NOT BUY A PUPPY ON IMPULSE...EVER!

2) Don't buy a puppy from a roadside or parking lot stand. Little or no expertise and poor breeding habits and breed qualities are represented by this type of puppy sale. Don't support this kind of poor and unfair trade. Over and over again, local and national agencies are "busting" these kinds of home operations for abuse and neglect.

3) Buying a newspaper puppy. These are often the same kind of "sold as a commodity" breeders. Often, breeders will not even want you to come to their facility (or home) because it will be a tip off to authorities that something is not right. If you consider a newspaper puppy from the classifieds, make sure you visit the actually home and look for signs that the seller is maybe using another person's home to show the puppies. Sometimes sellers will even ask to meet you at a parking lot or a park somehwere. DON"T DO IT!

When considering a puppy purchase make sure you do at least one of these three things first!

A) Read up on how what breeds are best for your situation. Will you need a dog that requires lots of exercise? If you live in a house with a small yard, where will you exercise the dog daily? Is the breed(s) your considering an "easy" train? If not, how will you insure that your puppy learns basic obedience? There are a plethora of questions you should ask and there are as many books on the subject...read one.

B) Talk to your vet or local trainer. Many trainers will accompany you on a puppy search and do tests and determine breed quality and mature characteristics that will help you understand what to expect as your puppy grows.

C) Buy from a reputable breeder by researching local breeders or by asking your trainer or vet for names and contact information.Check with your local humane shelter.

Never buy a puppy or a dog without considering your local shelter! Visit your local animal shelter.

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

Why Is My Dog Vomiting?

I remember taking a trip at 1:00AM with my dog Barney to go to the late night Walgreen's pharmacy for some pepto bismol. I knew for several reasons that he had an upset stomach and that some over the counter med would do the trick. However, it's generally NOT the thing to do. Identifying the reason for vomiting is often seen as a difficult task however, the reasons are generally few and the remedies are relatively simple in most cases. Here are some common solutions and problems.

1) Feed more and smaller meals thru the day. Some dogs will vomit bile because the stomach is empty and the stomach acids and digestive juices (bile) need some work to do. Try feeding smaller meals and make sure your dog has a small meal available right away in the morning.

2) Digestive issues that are not emergencies. Any bout of vomiting that last two or more days should be considered worthy of a trip to the vet. Many digestive disturbances are short lived and withholding food for 1-2 meals is often a good start. You may also mix some plain (unsweetened yogurt) in with the regular meal.

3) Yogurt is an excellent digestive aid and can be part of an ongoing part of a dog's diet. Low fat yogurt has more protein and whole yogurt has more fat. Many dogs prefer the whole yogurt but if your dog takes to the low fat, use it preferentially.

Other aids for digestive system challeneges include massage, acupressure, color/light therapy and herbs.

Monday, May 9, 2011

How Can I Stop My Dog From Pulling On The Leash?

This is a common complaint and often asked question by people who want to walk their dogs more often but who are frustrated by the constant pulling that makes such a walk anywhere from uncomfortable to downright miserable.

For my friends here in Woodland Park, Colorado I am available to modify the dogs behavior in several short sessions. I can also train the dog owner in techniques to correct this unwanted behavior. For my online friends I can offer several suggestions and critiques of common owner errors.

Ironically, most dog owners actually "teach" their dogs to pull unknowningly. Teaching a dog to heel is not an easy one day job. Teaching a dog to simply walk comfortably on a loose leash is a bit easier but is still anywhere from tedious to daunting depending on the breed, age, owner, health and other variables.

But, for the sake of a starting point let me suggest that walking with a dog that pulls is only teaching the dog to pull. In most cases, I have pet owners stop their walks and find an off leash place for excercise followed by short sessions that include teaching the dog to "watch me" or focus on you the walker. This can be done with a treat often. When it comes to your side and faces the same direction as you, this is a cause for a huge reward and celebration. Taking a few steps slowly with the dog at your side is a real success. Do this with and without the leash many times.

Next, begin using obstacles (cars, couches etc) to walk around with the dog. Use the obstacle to keep the dog focused on changing directions. Don't "run over" your dog when turing into him but look for an opportunity to be in front as you turn in front of the dog. When turning away from the dog (for example say the dog is walking on left and you turn right) be sure to have the dogs attention and have him follow your finger (perhaps with a treat in your hand). Make frequent stops and reward the dog for being close to you.

When walking forward, give a quick leash correction if the dog does not slow down when you say "slow" or "hey" or "easy". Say the word and give the dog a moment to slow and if he continues, give a quick leash jerk. Do NOT yank, pull or drag. Simply make a gentle snap of the leash. Change directions when the dog is getting ready to pull but DO NOT yank or drag your dog. Simply say "watch me" or "this way" and head a new direction. Make sessions short 3-5 minutes unless the dog is keeping focused. Don;t exhause yourself or the dog. This will result in little being accomplished. Reward good behavior immediately so the dog knows for sure what it did. A good behavior needs to be rewarded within a fraction of a second.

Teaching someone online to teach controlled walking is not easy, as a trainer is keen on body language and subtle movements of the dog that give clues as to progress being made. If you become frustrated, please call a professional. Thanks for giving your dog a good home with lots of exercise, quality food and much attention and love.